An ironic realization I’ve had recently is that a great deal of the seemingly modern issues that we deal with as humans can be traced back to behaviors and practices that have been around for eons. More specifically, the cultivation of wheat, a crop so common today that you can’t go a minute without eating it, in one form or another. At least, that’s what it feels like to me, a freshman with celiac disease. I was diagnosed at 16 and after a few tough years of navigating high school with it, I’m doing it all over again here at the University of Massachusetts. To say that it’s been tiring is an understatement.

Celiac disease is a chronic gastrointestinal illness that affects approximately one in 141 Americans (or to put it in more immediate terms, roughly 40 freshmen at UMass) and often goes undiagnosed. When an individual with celiac ingests gluten in amounts as little as 20 parts per million, their immune system begins to attack the villi that line the small intestine, preventing nutrient absorption and disrupting digestion. Other effects might include headaches, depression and weight loss, which can be detrimental to social and academic function. Currently, the only treatment for celiac is maintaining a strict gluten-free diet.

Like every other freshman, I pay a pretty penny to dine on campus. UMass Dining has a renowned reputation — but for celiacs, the free-for-all toast and bagel stations in each dining hall are a big red flag. This translates to the sauces and spreads, which could be marked with the characteristic purple labels. Granted, they don’t contain gluten ingredients, but the way they are served lends itself to accidental ingestion, even with gluten-free (GF) bread options available.

A similar issue presents itself at the grill stations. At Hampshire Dining Commons, almost everything (except for made-to-order meals) is self-service, including the dedicated GF station. It’s worth noting now that Berkshire Dining Commons is the only dining area without a dedicated GF station. You may, I suppose, trust a few thousand college kids to follow perfect buffet etiquette. I do not, and the general disregard is evident.

I was able to speak with Seamus Kelley, a fellow freshman and diagnosed celiac, about his experience with UMass Dining thus far. “Every day at the dining hall,” he told me, “[regular] pizza and pasta are served. It’s very frustrating when you want gluten-free pasta and it’s not being served.”

He’s not wrong — the dining commons often under-stock the dedicated GF stations. I have had instances where I’ve been denied food from gluten-free lines just because they ran out. Those with additional dietary restrictions are sometimes simply out of luck. Seamus has Avoidant/Restricted Food Intake Disorder (ARFID), which adds another layer of limitation to his diet.

“Some days I just skip meals, because it’s so hard to get food I can stomach,” Kelley said.

Even beyond the simple lack of options, in my experience, many of the “front-of-house” personnel aren’t familiar with the needs of food-sensitive students and will turn down or dismiss requests for fresh food simply out of a lack of understanding.

Indirect communication is another area where campus dining falls short. I use the UMass Dining app to filter meals based on my restrictions; it can be quite helpful in deciding where to swipe. But on multiple occasions, the food listed has either been mislabeled or missing entirely. An interaction at Worcester’s bowl station stands out in this regard. It took three or four levels of staff to verify the gluten-free designation. The app and individual nutrition cards labeled the “Bun Bo Hue” as gluten-free, but the main display said otherwise. As of writing, this has not been fixed.

I’ve had some incredible meals here, don’t get me wrong. The packaged breakfast muffins at Franklin hit the spot and the chicken bowls at Tandoor in Worcester are some of the best I’ve had. Worcester’s Tandoor station happens to be a great example of precautions taken correctly. Nearly all main dishes are made free of gluten, served by staff and the line is arranged in such a way that any naan or flatbread is safely stored at the end.

Unfortunately, this method isn’t viable everywhere. Gluten can be a tricky little thing and the risk of crossover extends to shared kitchen equipment like woks, deep fryers, ovens and gloves. Stations where meals are assembled around a wheat base (Grill, Cocina Latina, Acqua e Terra [Mediterranean]), or that serve gluten consistently among other dishes (Nori, Wok, Street Food and Bowl) are off-limits. Therefore, eating safely can become incredibly repetitive, or impossible during late-night hours. Grubbing on chicken and rice for the sixth time in a week while friends enjoy the diverse cuisines UMass takes pride in offering is a uniquely demoralizing experience, regardless of quality.

I’m not here to bash UMass Dining. And it’s true, UMass has taken strides in catering to the celiac population, but in its current state, it’s far from perfect. Eating safely at UMass with celiac takes more than just awareness. It requires advocacy, education and communication.

And if I’m putting it all out there, the lack of GF desserts is getting to me. I wouldn’t mind a peanut butter brownie once in a while. We’re number one, right? I think we can figure it out.

If you are having serious issues with dining accommodations, register with disability services (413.545.0892) or contact the dietitian (413.545.2472) for assistance.

Daniel Estrin can be reached at [email protected].