Amherst certainly has a plethora of both affordable and delicious dining options – but sometimes you just really, really need a burrito. And while Bueno y Sano certainly wears the big boy pants when it comes to Mexi-American chain joints, just down the street from the epicenter of town is a slightly more authentic, hole-in-the-wall Mexican establishment by the name of La Veracruzana.
Upon entrance, this eatery is notably no-frills; after all, La Veracruzana – sandwiched discretely between a bike shop and an alleyway – is literally a hole in the wall. They make the most of their minimal space, however. Customers can certainly pay watchful attention to the preparation of their food, since one is never more than 15 or so feet away from the one or two cooks working behind the counter and chalkboard menu. Despite its sparse setting, its surprisingly clean and well-kept, and the art-adorned walls add a dignified touch as well.
One thing to remember about La Veracruzana is to not rush when ordering. They’ve got about as many items on the menu as the property’s area in square feet. This obviously means they have a ton to offer, but the menu could be considered a little top-heavy, so care must be taken when choosing a meal. Unless craving something in particular, stick with mostly the simple stuff here.
When it comes to the meat-and-potatoes dishes of Mexican cuisine, La Veracruzana knocks it out of the park: tacos, quesadillas, and enchiladas – all rich, fantastically rib-sticking fair. Most of their dinner plates also come with a heaping portion of seasoned rice, as well as a choice of refried or black beans.
The slightly more complex culinary complex arrangements are a little touch-and-go, however. For example, dishes like tamales might leave diners with more to be desired than other simpler choices. Avoid subbing in chicken for the dishes, as it’s on the dry side and frankly is nowhere near as flavorful and succulent as the beef and steak.
If opposed to beef or steak, the vegetarian variations available on nearly all of their dishes make for a lighter but still tasty experience. For a little variety, try subbing in a chorizo (sausage) and egg mixture for beef to give an order of tacos or quesadillas an odd yet tantalizing flavor twist.
The great thing about La Veracruzana is that every customer can add their own flourish of spice and flavor to their order at the salsa bar. It doesn’t look like much – six bowls in a tub of ice – but the salsas are all top notch, and really serve to augment the taste of each and every dish. Even if one selects simply nibbling a bowl of tortilla chips, they’re all worth trying over and over in endless combinations. Varieties range from a mild and crisp green chili and garlic salsa to a robustly flavorful tomato salsa to “salsa diablo,” a thick, orange mixture with a fiery kick. There’s even a salsa flavored with beer – a pretty unique experience.
Ultimately, La Veracruzana is great for what it is – a quick, moderately cheap stop for decent-to-awesome Mexican comfort food. The minimalist atmosphere keeps it casual; this isn’t really the place for a business meeting or a first date over empanadas, but it’s a great place to pop in for a tasty study break or a fast but filling meal after work.
If it’s made out of meat and cheese and tortillas, La Veracruzana can probably whip up a tasty version of it. Just don’t forget the beer salsa.
Dave Coffey can be reached at [email protected].
